Ottoman hill towns at Berat and Gjirokastër, an Ionian coastline that stayed off the map long after its neighbours filled up, and the Accursed Mountains rising behind Shkodër with valleys you still reach by ferry. Albania packs Greek ruins, empty beaches and 2,000-metre peaks into a country smaller than Maryland.
Top cities and UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Albania.
The capital spent the 2000s being painted — a mayor with an art degree ordered the grey communist blocks daubed in oranges, purples and geometric blues, and the habit stuck. Skanderbeg Square anchors it, the Blloku district where Party officials once lived is now the nightlife quarter, and the Bunk'Art museums turn Hoxha's nuclear shelters into cold-war exhibits.
Albania's Riviera capital looks across six kilometres of water to Corfu, close enough that the ferry takes half an hour. The seafront promenade fills every summer evening, and the town works best as a base — Butrint is 20 minutes south, the Blue Eye spring 30 minutes inland.
Called the city of a thousand windows for the Ottoman houses stacked up the hillside, their glass fronts catching the light in tiers. The Mangalem and Gorica quarters face each other across the Osum, joined by a stone bridge, while the inhabited castle above still has families living inside its walls.
A steep grey town of slate roofs and stone lanes, birthplace of both Enver Hoxha and the novelist Ismail Kadare, who described it as the strangest city ever built. The Ottoman-era castle holds a captured American spy plane and commanding views down the Drino valley.
Four small islands sit just offshore in water so clear the boundary between sand and sea is hard to place — you can wade or paddle out to most of them. It has become the Riviera's most crowded stretch in August, which makes June and September the honest recommendation.
The cultural capital of the north and Albania's most bicycle-friendly city, spread beside the Balkans' largest lake. Rozafa Castle looks over the meeting of three rivers, and the town is the jumping-off point for the Koman ferry into the Accursed Mountains.
Skanderbeg held this hillside fortress against three Ottoman sieges in the 15th century, which made him the national hero and Krujë the national pilgrimage. The old bazaar below the castle is the country's best-known market for carved wood, silver filigree and antique rifles of uncertain provenance.
Where Albania declared independence in 1912, and where the Adriatic gives way to the Ionian — the water noticeably clearer south of the city. It is the gateway to the Karaburun-Sazan marine park, the country's only protected stretch of sea, reachable by boat for snorkelling and cave diving.
A whitewashed village clinging to the slope beneath the Llogara pass, with a long pebble beach below and stone lanes above. It has become the Riviera's summer-festival hub without entirely losing the old village at the top of the hill.
A Greek-speaking coastal town with a ruined castle quarter above and a string of coves below — Livadhi, Potami, Gjipe reached only by boat or a walk down a canyon. Quieter than Ksamil and better for anyone who wants a beach without a beach club.
Albania's main port and its oldest continuously inhabited city, founded as Epidamnos in the 7th century BC. The Roman amphitheatre sits half-excavated in the middle of the modern town, big enough once for 20,000 spectators, with a Byzantine chapel built into its lower tiers.
A valley of stone houses deep in the Accursed Mountains, reachable by road only recently and still feeling like the end of it. The lock-in tower where men sheltered from blood feuds under the medieval Kanun code still stands, and the day-hike over the pass to Valbona is the country's classic walk.
A wide glacial valley on the far side of the pass from Theth, ringed by limestone peaks that stay snow-streaked into June. Most arrive the long way — the Koman ferry through a flooded gorge, then a road up the valley — which is half the point.
The most French-influenced of Albanian cities, with a lycée tradition, a serious beer festival and the country's oldest brewery. The Old Bazaar has been handsomely restored, and the National Museum of Medieval Art holds an extraordinary collection of Orthodox icons.
Albania's window onto Lake Ohrid, the shared UNESCO water that is among the oldest and deepest lakes on earth. The lakeside promenade is made for slow evenings, and the koran trout — found nowhere else — is the thing to order.
Less a town than a wooded peninsula stacked with 2,500 years of ruins: a Greek theatre, Roman baths, a Byzantine baptistery with a mosaic floor, and a Venetian tower, all inside a national park. Wander it early, before the Corfu day trips land.
Skanderbeg summoned the Albanian princes here in 1444 to form the league that resisted the Ottomans, and he is buried in the ruined cathedral. The nearby Kune-Vain lagoon is one of the better birdwatching spots on the Adriatic flyway.
A small town on the Vjosa, one of the last wild rivers in Europe and now a national park along its whole length. It is the base for the Bënjë thermal springs and the Lengarica canyon, and it takes its cooking seriously enough to be Albania's unofficial gastronomic capital.
An Ottoman garrison town on the old Via Egnatia, the Roman road that ran from the Adriatic to Constantinople. The walled centre is compact and largely unvisited, which is much of its appeal.
A Greek colony that Cicero called great and dignified, where the young Octavian was studying when news arrived that Caesar had been murdered. The ruins sit on a quiet hill near Fier, sharing the site with a 13th-century Orthodox monastery.
Rebuilt above the reservoir that drowned the old town, at the meeting of the White and Black Drin beneath Mount Gjallica. It was nominated for a Nobel Peace Prize for sheltering more refugees than it had residents during the Kosovo war.
The town beside Karavasta Lagoon, the largest in Albania and home to one of the Mediterranean's last colonies of curly-headed Dalmatian pelicans. A boardwalk runs out through the umbrella pines to the water, and the birds are easiest to see in spring.
For most of the twentieth century Albania was the hardest country in Europe to enter. Hoxha's regime sealed the borders, banned religion outright and scattered several hundred thousand concrete bunkers across the fields in anticipation of an invasion that never came. Those bunkers are still there — some now bars, some museums, most just sitting in olive groves — and they are the quickest way to grasp how recently this place opened up. Tirana, the capital, spent the 2000s having its grey apartment blocks painted in oranges and purples on the orders of an artist-turned-mayor, which tells you something about the mood since.
The coast is what draws most first-time visitors. South of Vlorë the road climbs the Llogara pass and drops onto the Ionian, and the water turns the colour people usually associate with Greece — Dhërmi, Himarë, the little islands off Ksamil. It is no longer a secret, and Ksamil in August is proof, but walk twenty minutes to Gjipe or Krorëz and you can still have a cove to yourself. Inland, Berat stacks its Ottoman houses up the hillside in tiers of windows, and Gjirokastër answers in grey stone and slate a hundred kilometres south. Butrint, on a wooded peninsula near the Greek border, layers a Greek theatre, Roman baths and a Byzantine baptistery into one afternoon's walk.
The north is the part people miss. The Koman ferry threads a flooded gorge for three hours to reach Valbona, and from there the classic day-hike crosses a pass to Theth, where a stone lock-in tower still stands from the days when the Kanun code governed blood feuds. Add the Blue Eye spring bubbling up from an unmeasured depth, the Vjosa running wild from Greece to the sea as one of the last undammed rivers in Europe, and the pelicans at Karavasta lagoon. How many have you made it to?
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